Comparing Overflows | Synergy Reef vs Modular Marine! (1 Viewer)

[Reefahholic]

First let’s look at the front skim box dimensions.

Synergy Reef: 16″ x 1.6″ x 5.5″

Modular Marine: 16" x 1.125" x 5"


Now the rear drain box dimensions.

Synergy Reef: 16″ x 3.75″ x 7″

Modular Marine: 16" x 3.75" x 7"



Materials and features of both overflow boxes:


Synergy Reef Material:

Our proprietary new polymer blend overflow is 100% injection molded. It’s Seamless with a translucent Black Hi-Tech Polymer. This means that every overflow will be exactly the same. Being injection molded also means no glued seams that can leak, it is truly a “One Piece” design. We are the only company that injection molds this style overflow system. Injection molding and precision 3D CAD designed components allows us more details and features than flat stock built overflows. This Poly-carbonate material is bulletproof. They are practically indestructible!


Features:

*100% injection molded

*One Piece design*

*Precision 3D CAD designed components*

*VTeeth*
Our new Velocity Teeth allow for an even surface skimming flow into the overflow. This maximizes the surface skimming capabilities of the overflow as the flow rate increases. This also allows us to have a very small water level differential. Injection molded VTeeth™ are smooth without any rough surfaces, this provides a continuous smooth flow.

*U-Flow Pipes*
We have designed these fittings to maximize space inside of the outside rear overflow box. These compact fittings are not available off the shelf anywhere else. They allow us to fit our 1.5″ Fittings into such a small space.

*Water Tight Locking Rear Cover*
Our poly-carbonate rear box cover is not just a rectangle piece of material. It is a feature that was specifically designed to have a function and structure. We have designed the rear cover to lock in place when attached. It also features an exclusive channel system to keep water inside the rear box. No other overflow on the market can compare their lids to these!

*Locking, Snap Fit Weir*
Removable locking weir for easy maintenance and cleaning. We have designed a simple slide fit that allow for a smooth action when removing the weir in tight spots under the trim on your tank. This means ZERO Clearance is needed to remove the weir when installed under a braced tank! This is a non-magnetic locking weir design that snaps into place.



Modular Marine Material:

One main advantage of our design that no one else has is if you close your drain valves our exterior box will not overflow. This is because our exterior plumbing box mounts at the same height as the skimmer box. All the other designs on the market have an exterior box that is mounted well below the skimmer box so if you shut the drain valves the exterior box will overflow.


Features:

*Entire skimmer box pulls off for easy cleaning*

*Slimmest and shortest skimmer box on the market*

*This design keeps water line hidden behind trim*

*Works with rimless, eurobrace, and standard trim aquariums*

*Rear box has new notched design to fit over trim so both boxes are mounted at the same height*

*Countersunk lids made from poly-carbonate for both boxes*

*Professionally fabricated from CNC machined parts*

*1/4"and 3/8" cell cast acrylic (high quality)*

*1/4"poly-carbonate lids will never bow or warp*

*Bent front corners on both boxes (no seams)*

*Polished edges*

*Perimeter braced exterior box*

*100% water tight joints*


A few pictures of both (picture courtesy/credit to both companies websites)






My conclusion:
I like both. I feel both have advantages. They did a fantastic job designing these.

 

[steveb]

All I have had is modular marine. They have done four custom ones for me and I have two of their off the shelf style. But I think both are fine.

 

[Reefahholic]

All I have had is modular marine. They have done four custom ones for me and I have two of their off the shelf style. But I think both are fine.

I just found out that MM has built the front box to where it plugs into the bulkheads on the rear box. This is not what I was hoping for because I will have to shut down my system to clean the weir and have to take the entire box off and drain it, vs just cleaning the weir. On a positive note, this allows you to clean behind the box.

Synergy Reef offers the availability to buy a extra weir so that you can just switch them out when they get clogged up. You can put the old one in vinegar for a day. I don’t even have to shut off the system to switch them.

 

[Reefahholic]

Photo credit: JCTReefer

 

[Cody]

First let’s look at the front skim box dimensions.

Synergy Reef: 16″ x 1.6″ x 5.5″

Modular Marine: 16" x 1.125" x 5"


Now the rear drain box dimensions.

Synergy Reef: 16″ x 3.75″ x 7″

Modular Marine: 16" x 3.75" x 7"



Materials and features of both overflow boxes:


Synergy Reef Material:

Our proprietary new polymer blend overflow is 100% injection molded. It’s Seamless with a translucent Black Hi-Tech Polymer. This means that every overflow will be exactly the same. Being injection molded also means no glued seams that can leak, it is truly a “One Piece” design. We are the only company that injection molds this style overflow system. Injection molding and precision 3D CAD designed components allows us more details and features than flat stock built overflows. This Poly-carbonate material is bulletproof. They are practically indestructible!


Features:

*100% injection molded

*One Piece design*

*Precision 3D CAD designed components*

*VTeeth*
Our new Velocity Teeth allow for an even surface skimming flow into the overflow. This maximizes the surface skimming capabilities of the overflow as the flow rate increases. This also allows us to have a very small water level differential. Injection molded VTeeth™ are smooth without any rough surfaces, this provides a continuous smooth flow.

*U-Flow Pipes*
We have designed these fittings to maximize space inside of the outside rear overflow box. These compact fittings are not available off the shelf anywhere else. They allow us to fit our 1.5″ Fittings into such a small space.

*Water Tight Locking Rear Cover*
Our poly-carbonate rear box cover is not just a rectangle piece of material. It is a feature that was specifically designed to have a function and structure. We have designed the rear cover to lock in place when attached. It also features an exclusive channel system to keep water inside the rear box. No other overflow on the market can compare their lids to these!

*Locking, Snap Fit Weir*
Removable locking weir for easy maintenance and cleaning. We have designed a simple slide fit that allow for a smooth action when removing the weir in tight spots under the trim on your tank. This means ZERO Clearance is needed to remove the weir when installed under a braced tank! This is a non-magnetic locking weir design that snaps into place.



Modular Marine Material:

One main advantage of our design that no one else has is if you close your drain valves our exterior box will not overflow. This is because our exterior plumbing box mounts at the same height as the skimmer box. All the other designs on the market have an exterior box that is mounted well below the skimmer box so if you shut the drain valves the exterior box will overflow.


Features:

*Entire skimmer box pulls off for easy cleaning*

*Slimmest and shortest skimmer box on the market*

*This design keeps water line hidden behind trim*

*Works with rimless, eurobrace, and standard trim aquariums*

*Rear box has new notched design to fit over trim so both boxes are mounted at the same height*

*Countersunk lids made from poly-carbonate for both boxes*

*Professionally fabricated from CNC machined parts*

*1/4"and 3/8" cell cast acrylic (high quality)*

*1/4"poly-carbonate lids will never bow or warp*

*Bent front corners on both boxes (no seams)*

*Polished edges*

*Perimeter braced exterior box*

*100% water tight joints*


A few pictures of both (picture courtesy/credit to both companies websites)






My conclusion:
I like both. I feel both have advantages. They did a fantastic job designing these.

V teeth? I don’t understand that. The wider the gap on the bottom, the better the weirs skim, and they’re selling the inverse. The top is just a reserve for if the bottom clogs. For that matter, a wider weir top to bottom makes more sense than their design.

I’m not sure if even Billy Mays could sell this product.

 

[Reefahholic]

V teeth? I don’t understand that. The wider the gap on the bottom, the better the weirs skim, and they’re selling the inverse. The top is just a reserve for if the bottom clogs. For that matter, a wider weir top to bottom makes more sense than their design.

I’m not sure if even Billy Mays could sell this product.

Yeah I’m not sure how that works but sounds interesting.

MM is doing the same thing, but it’s a bit different and to me it makes more sense.

Photo credit: Modular Marine

 

[steveb]

I just found out that MM has built the front box to where it plugs into the bulkheads on the rear box. This is not what I was hoping for because I will have to shut down my system to clean the weir and have to take the entire box off and drain it, vs just cleaning the weir. On a positive note, this allows you to clean behind the box.

Synergy Reef offers the availability to buy a extra weir so that you can just switch them out when they get clogged up. You can put the old one in vinegar for a day. I don’t even have to shut off the system to switch them.

Why? Just use a tooth brush on it. Its not like its going to be difficult to get to. Exactly what I do on the ones I have. That being said, that is why two of the custom ones don't have teeth (on tanks that have a hood).

 

[Erin]

Out of curiosity, why would one choose to have a tank drilled on the back rather than the bottom? Using an external overflow system seems like an unneeded risk of leaks/water outside the stand.

 

[steveb]

I don't think one has any more inherent risk than the other. They both holes through the glass although I suppose one could argue the internal overflow of a drilled bottom may allow less water to leak (assuming its water tight).

IMO its really about tank real estate and the size of the weir you want. An in tank overflow with holes drilled in the bottom takes more space in the tank than an 1" wide weir attached to the back wall.

Then their is weir length. In my 84" tank it is 80" vs. 12" to 20" for a single internal our double that using two.

 

[slojim]

V shaped teeth are a long standing practice on weirs built for many other purposes, you can find plenty of references on line. They do a much better job than you would think just by looking at them in maintaining a steadier water level over a range of flows than straight teeth. If, for example, you have a change in flow rate (lots of DC pump users in the market now), with straight weirs, the DT level will change much more than with the V teeth. Think of it like a piece of adjustable sized piping. More flow - higher level - larger opening.
I don't think it would matter much on my tank, but for someone with a nice rimless show tank, a quarter inch difference in level might be an issue.

 

[Erin]

I don't think one has any more inherent risk than the other. They both holes through the glass although I suppose one could argue the internal overflow of a drilled bottom may allow less water to leak (assuming its water tight).

IMO its really about tank real estate and the size of the weir you want. An in tank overflow with holes drilled in the bottom takes more space in the tank than an 1" wide weir attached to the back wall.

Then their is weir length. In my 84" tank it is 80" vs. 12" to 20" for a single internal our double that using two.

Regarding a leak, my concern with the external is that there's nothing to catch the water... at least with an internal, a slower leak will be contained under the tank.

Appreciate the feedback. I've been looking a bit at new tanks, and some manufacturers are using back glass bulkheads instead of bottom ones; just made me wonder why. I totally get the real estate angle though.

 

[Reefahholic]

Why? Just use a tooth brush on it. Its not like its going to be difficult to get to. Exactly what I do on the ones I have. That being said, that is why two of the custom ones don't have teeth (on tanks that have a hood).

I’ve done the tooth brush thing, but it’s just easier to remove it and give it a good scrub/cleaning. How do you keep the fish from going into the overflow box w/o a weir w/ teeth. You must have those suckers trained!

 

[Reefahholic]

V shaped teeth are a long standing practice on weirs built for many other purposes, you can find plenty of references on line. They do a much better job than you would think just by looking at them in maintaining a steadier water level over a range of flows than straight teeth. If, for example, you have a change in flow rate (lots of DC pump users in the market now), with straight weirs, the DT level will change much more than with the V teeth. Think of it like a piece of adjustable sized piping. More flow - higher level - larger opening.
I don't think it would matter much on my tank, but for someone with a nice rimless show tank, a quarter inch difference in level might be an issue.

I know regular teeth bring my display up by 0.5” which I always account for in every build. Now this is gonna throw a wrench in my build plan. I’ll have to call and ask how much lower the water level will be. I’m guessing it will go from 0.5 to 0.25” but maybe more if they’re that good.

 

[Reefahholic]

Regarding a leak, my concern with the external is that there's nothing to catch the water... at least with an internal, a slower leak will be contained under the tank.

Appreciate the feedback. I've been looking a bit at new tanks, and some manufacturers are using back glass bulkheads instead of bottom ones; just made me wonder why. I totally get the real estate angle though.

Drilling the back glass allows much easier access IMO. It’s face level. You don’t need to crawl under the tank. I’ve done at least 8 builds with this style. I’ve had a few people I helped with the tank drilled on the bottom glass and it sucks. The drains have to go through the stand. Unions and valves are harder to get to.

Here is the original design that everybody starting following back in the day. The guy’s name on RC was BeanAnimal. He had a 75/G tank he and his dad setup with this method. Most of us today have modified it slightly. I don’t use 3 ball valves anymore because the emergency is never used as a drain. The open channel standpipe is typically modified with a simple drilled hole. No air line is needed unless you have the plumbing too high.

This explains the method:

Silent & Fail-Safe Aquarium Overflow System | BeanAnimal's Reef

Build the world famous "Bean Animal" silent and fail-safe aquarium overflow system. No noise, no adjustment, no floods. A truly set and forget setup that makes the Durso and Stockman style of standpipes obsolete! Build your own today!

beananimal.com

 

[Erin]

I'm familiar with the Bean... I decided on a Herbie. But, neither is predicated on the holes being on the back or bottom. Looking at how you're planning to set up, I wonder how you will be able to get to the back of the tank once it's filled. Even with an internal overflow, my stand is about 6 inches from the wall... just makes it easier for me, but I'm not very tall

 

[Reefahholic]

I'm familiar with the Bean... I decided on a Herbie. But, neither is predicated on the holes being on the back or bottom. Looking at how you're planning to set up, I wonder how you will be able to get to the back of the tank once it's filled. Even with an internal overflow, my stand is about 6 inches from the wall... just makes it easier for me, but I'm not very tall

I used to always panic about how I would be able to get behind the aquarium. Honestly, the last 3 tanks I've set up I haven't needed back there much at all. I use 1.5" plumbing (never have clogs) and I don't clean my overflow boxes much anymore. I can always access both overflow boxes from the front or side if needed. The only thing I really need to access is the one ball valve for the main drain. You already know sometimes when the system is new it takes a lot of tweaking before they finally settle down. After that I can turn the return pump off/on and not have to touch the valve much.

There is not reason why an external overflow will leak. Unless you buy a cheap acrylic overflow from eBay maybe. So don't be scared about water leaking. As long as you buy quality bulkheads and tighten them properly (ABS are decent). Or... you can go with the heavier duty Scheduled 80. They are much more durable and far better quality. The O rings are twice as thick, the seams are better, and they will last a lot longer than ABS. They cost about 60% more though. I haven't have a problem with ABS. Just don't tighten them too much. Hand tight and then 1/4 turn with a wrench. Done.

 

[Reefahholic]

They say once you go external.....you never go back.

 

[Erin]

Lol

 

[Cody]

I’ve done the tooth brush thing, but it’s just easier to remove it and give it a good scrub/cleaning. How do you keep the fish from going into the overflow box w/o a weir w/ teeth. You must have those suckers trained!

I use the black sewing canvas folded in half to keep the fish out. I don’t like having teeth on my overflows either. As far as keeping them clean, this is the 48” internal on my display. I haven’t cleaned the mats in over a year and they aren’t anywhere close to being clogged up.

 

[Reefahholic]

I use the black sewing canvas folded in half to keep the fish out. I don’t like having teeth on my overflows either. As far as keeping them clean, this is the 48” internal on my display. I haven’t cleaned the mats in over a year and they aren’t anywhere close to being clogged up.

Why not have overflow teeth? Why are you against teeth!!!