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  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Clownfish Chris View Post
    Not necessarily. The biggest limitation for a tank like this is flow. SPS require higher dynamic flow. That may be difficult with the overall shape of your system.
    Heres a higher res picture of planned flow layout from the Tapatalk servers. Im good with working within the constraints of this system. If only zoas will thrive, then Ill only have zoas, for example.

    The pumps are Tunze 6015s (475gph) and the light is a 36 AquaticLife Edge Reef LED. Im curious to see how the flow will actually play out.

    REEF ON

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Clownfish Chris View Post
    Take some craft mesh and wrap it around that powerhead. That will prevent the nem from getting chopped up.

    Being as you are are new to the hobby, I would recommend you start with zoas and shrooms. Learn to test for Calsium, Alkalinity, Magnesium, Phosphate and Nitrate. Dont use API kits. Most people like salifert. Red Sea makes good kits too.

    After being able able to get consistent results then learn how to manipulate those parameters. You want to be able to have stable parameters before you add Anything other than soft coral.

    Nitrate and phosphate are essentially nutrients where as alk, cal, and mag are coral skeleton building compounds.

    To maintain nutrients, think of nutrient export through harvesting macroalgae and use of a protein skimmer. The other three will drop with growth of coralline algae and Stoney coral.
    Thanks for this. Super helpful. Do all coral require skeleton building compounds? Are soft coral easier to maintain because they only require the nutrients nitrate and phosphate?
    REEF ON

  3. #13
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    This is a very interesting thread -- I appreciate the discussion and challenge undertaken!

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  5. #14
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    On a very basic level, essentially.

    Soft coral do not have skeletons therefore do not use those elements nearly as much. Other critters like snails and to some extent fish do. they are not as sensitive to changes in their solution though.

    All Living creatures utilize N and Po. Some in different relative ratios than others. If you want some interesting reading, look up "Redfield Ratio". High Po can be very detrimental to stoney corals but there should be some. There is a balance that reefers try to achieve. Keep in mind that with algae outbreaks such as hair algae, phosphate may show absolutely zero. What may be going on is that it is taking up available phosphate before your test kit can detect it.


    Here are my target numbers:

    Nitrate- 0.5ppm
    Phosphate- .003ppm
    Alkalinity- 8.5 Dkh
    Calcium- 420ppm
    Mag- 1350-1450ppm

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  7. #15
    Supporting Member frankc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nels0nico View Post
    Heres a macro view of the setup to give more context.


    What a cool house! It wouldn't work for me though - my dogs would be in there all the time. I am very interested in following the progress of this tank.

    I am guessing you are not planning to have any sort of cover on the tank. If so, keep that in mind when choosing fishes. Firefish and wrasses are master jumpers, so they would likely be on the floor before you know it. This tank also presents the interesting challenge that you will primarily be viewing the inhabitants from above, so choose fish that are colorful at the top and have cool pectoral fins, such as the dragonettes.

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  9. #16
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    That has got to be the weirdest tank setup that I've ever seen. Gorgeous house, beautiful idea, but I have zero idea how that's going to be a functional tank. If you add led lights to the tank, then it kills the beauty of that room. Those lights are going to spray all over the place. Also, with the size of the tank, you can't place any fish large enough to be able to be viewed from above that would be significant to the viewer. That area needs a fountain, not a sal****************er aquarium, and I even advocate ponds outside being sal****************er.

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  11. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cody View Post
    That has got to be the weirdest tank setup that I've ever seen. Gorgeous house, beautiful idea, but I have zero idea how that's going to be a functional tank. If you add led lights to the tank, then it kills the beauty of that room. Those lights are going to spray all over the place. Also, with the size of the tank, you can't place any fish large enough to be able to be viewed from above that would be significant to the viewer. That area needs a fountain, not a sal****************er aquarium, and I even advocate ponds outside being sal****************er.
    Cody,

    You are right. The LED sprayed everywhere, and the reflection from the diodes was intense. It looked really, really bad.

    So... I'm going to get the Tunze 8850, a submersible 12" full spectrum LED light with ramp timer. This should look way better, and solve the reflection problem. Still putting the little 6015 in there to create flow. We'll see how that works when it arrives.

    I'm going to treat this thing as three 10 gallon nano tanks. For now, I'm settling on only one third of the tank being lit and circulated enough for coral. We'll see what happens with the other two thirds. Maybe I'll try to put a Blue Tang in there. Kidding.

    I'll post some pics of the inner workings when I do the next water change.

    Thank y'all for the interest and help.

    Happy reefing!

    -N

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  13. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by frankc View Post
    What a cool house! It wouldn't work for me though - my dogs would be in there all the time. I am very interested in following the progress of this tank.

    I am guessing you are not planning to have any sort of cover on the tank. If so, keep that in mind when choosing fishes. Firefish and wrasses are master jumpers, so they would likely be on the floor before you know it. This tank also presents the interesting challenge that you will primarily be viewing the inhabitants from above, so choose fish that are colorful at the top and have cool pectoral fins, such as the dragonettes.
    Thanks! Dragonets look spectacular!

    I have three dogs and a 2 year old boy! By far, the boy is the biggest hazard. He's learning to respect the tank, though.
    REEF ON

  14. #19
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    Pictures of inside of fountain/tank.

    300 GPH fountain pump;
    carbon pad/noise dampener;
    heater; and
    Reef Glass skimmer.

    All of the cables go under the fountain through that PVC pipe. The air pump powering the skimmer is also under the fountain.

    Tunze 6015 pumps arrive Tuesday; light should be here by end of week as well.

    Will update.


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  15. #20
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    Update:

    The tank seems to be doing very well, save for a brown diatom bloom and a couple of casualties that I had along the way. First casualty was the yellow tail damsel who got caught in a crevice when I was out of town and passed a few days later. Second, was a sand-sifting starfish that apparently starved to death because my tank was too clean. I feel bad about the starfish, but impulsively bought it un-researched because my wife wanted one and because the LFS recommended it. Other than that, the tank seems to be doing very well. Two clownfish seem to be paired and the remaining two YT damsels seem to be pacified.

    Now, I think it's time to add the BTA for my clown fish! I know some of the downfalls of them: they can grow to be 1'; they can move around; they can be aggressive; and they can get caught in power heads. But, I'm going to chance it. I'm going to place a submersible Tunze 8850 full spectrum light in the side where the clownfish hang and I'm going to put the BTA on the substrate to see where it goes. I tested out the Tunze power head and it worked splendidly. Going to go with the same flow plan shown in previous posts. Diagram attached in reply below.

    Any suggestions, cautions, or WTF's would be appreciated. Thanks again to everyone for your help on this. I'm having a blast!

    -N
    REEF ON


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