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Thread: RO/DI water

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wingnut View Post
    I only get about a 100 gallons out of my DI resin , that is why I bought a TDS meter , I may have something else going on , but my sediment filter gets pretty dirty also.
    Before I had a booster, I got maybe 30 gallons of DI water. So that seemed to help me ALOT. Granted I went from 30 psi to 80psi
    I am a bomb technician. If you see me running, try to keep up.

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  2. #12
    Supporting Member Wingnut's Avatar
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    I don't have a psi gauge on my system , so am not sure is more pressure better obviously it is

  3. #13
    Vice President steveb's Avatar
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    If your MUD is using chloramines make sure you are using either a catalytic carbon cartridge (like a di cartridge but filled w/catalytic carbon) in addition to your regular carbon cartridge or one of the chloramine busting carbon cartridges. Chloramines will kill your RO membrane lickety split.

    When your putting out 1 ppm from your di resin the issue is what is making that 1 ppm?

    Reverse Osmosis/Deionization Systems to Purify Tap Water for Reef Aquaria by Randy Holmes-Farley - Reefkeeping.com

    From the above article..
    Quote Originally Posted by randy holmes farley
    Several issues arise relating to the depletion of the DI resins that aquarists need to be aware of. Primary among these is that when a DI resin becomes depleted, that does not simply mean that the water passes through just as it came from the RO effluent. It may actually be much worse from an aquarist’s perspective. The reason for this is that while the DI resin is functioning properly, all ions will be caught. But when it is depleted, not only the new ions are coming through and might show up in the product water, but so are all the ions that ever got into the DI resin in the first place. The total concentration of ions coming out of the exhausted DI resin will not be raised as compared to the RO's effluent, but which ions are released may be very different.
    Last edited by steveb; 07-14-2016 at 10:51 PM.
    Steve Baring
    M.A.R.S.H. - Vice President
    Marine Aquarium and Reef Society of Houston

  4. #14
    Supporting Member Wingnut's Avatar
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    Ya I just buy the filters from LFS , I believe they are the ones Bulk Reef sales , I will check into the chloramine busting cartridges. Thanks

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by rparker2112 View Post
    My father in law drinks it. I have it tested every year and its potable, just ALOT of sediment and stuff in it. DI resin last maybe 80 gallons of im lucky.
    Have you thought about adding another sediment filter to your RO/DI unit? You can grab a filter housing and 1 micron sediment filter for about $23. Replacement filters run about $3. Much cheaper then replacing DI resin so soon. Just have your incoming tap water run through this before your RO/DI unit itself.




  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wingnut View Post
    Ya I just buy the filters from LFS , I believe they are the ones Bulk Reef sales , I will check into the chloramine busting cartridges. Thanks
    Like Steve mentioned, you need to contact your MUD district to see if they use chlorine or chloromines in your area. That will tell you which carbon block to buy. I called mine when I first bought my unit and I have chlorine in my water. I have 175ppm tap, 2ppm RO, 0ppm tds DI. My DI resin lasts a couple months and I make 65-70 gal every week.

  7. #17
    Supporting Member Wingnut's Avatar
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    I will give them a call , and add another sediment filter. Thanks

  8. #18
    Vice President steveb's Avatar
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    my setup is

    1 micron sediment, choramine buster, chloramine buster, booster pump, ro membranes, mixed bed di, mixed bed di. I haven't checked the tap in a long time. I read 12 TDS out of the RO membranes and 0 out of the DI's.
    Steve Baring
    M.A.R.S.H. - Vice President
    Marine Aquarium and Reef Society of Houston

  9. #19
    Supporting Member Wingnut's Avatar
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    Ya , I am doing water tonight and reading 0 ppm out of my RO/ DI , but after about 30 gallons of water my new DI resin is about an inch of it is already changed colors. Thanks for all the input Guys

  10. #20
    Supporting Member Fish Keeper82's Avatar
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    The thing that I do that makes my DI resin last way longer is let the RO unit run the first couple of mins without it going through the DI. When you initially run water through the RO unit it produces what's known as TDS creep(high TDS out of your unit fom initial start up) I've tested mine at 90ppm in the first couple of seconds then it slowly comes down to about 5ppm after 2 mins or so . If you run your unit for 2-3 mins just through the RO there is a lot of water with high TDS creep that you don't run through the the DI resin thus making it last longer.
    My DI lasts me about 8 months.
    Here is a good visual example

    https://youtu.be/JWbKnsT-kLw
    Last edited by Fish Keeper82; 07-16-2016 at 01:16 AM.

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