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  1. #11
    MARSH Sponsor Buckeye Hydro's Avatar
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    Your water report: https://www.facebook.com/MUD365/phot...type=3&theater

    Says nothing about iron or sediment or hardness... which is not unusual as these are not regulated contaminants. Might want to give them a call, and discuss the issues you're having. I'm sure it won't be news to them. Another option is to test your water:
    https://www.buckeyehydro.com/drinking-water-test/

    Russ
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  2. #12
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    I'm in the Cypress Creek area 77433. Didn't have any issues with the water, but recently installed a water softener because the wife wanted one. While that was being done, I went ahead and added a whole house sediment filter at the main water entry point. It's amazing how much that sediment filter catches because I can see it in the clear container. Makes me wonder IF we didn't have it, where all that crap would have gone. I then plumbed my RODI right next to the units, so I have a giant prefilter.

    https://www.amazon.com/Culligan-WH-H...e+water+filter

    I'm considering adding a 2nd but using it for carbon. I don't think I need it, but it's one of those "let's over engineer". =) I researched including YouTube for videos and that's where I found the Culligan. It has 1 inch inlets.

  3. #13
    MARSH Sponsor Buckeye Hydro's Avatar
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    That sediment would have been caught, for the most part, by your softener - and then sent down the drain when the softener regenerates, probably about once per week.

    I'd advise against installing a whole house carbon block. Why?
    1. That housing takes a 10" x 4.5" (nominal) filter. That size carbon block is typically rated at a flow of about 3.5 gpm. A typical home has flows double to triple that. Meaning you'll push water through the filter faster than it can do it's intended job.
    2. Chlorine or chloramines are put in the potable water for a reason - they are disinfectants. Best not to remove them with a POE filter - use a properly sized POU filter instead.

    Russ
    RO and RODI Systems and Supplies
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  4. #14
    BOD MEMBER steveb's Avatar
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    Russ what are POE and POU?
    Steve
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  5. #15
    MARSH Sponsor Buckeye Hydro's Avatar
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    Sorry for the jargon!

    POE=Point of Entry. Usually larger equipment designed to treat higher flows. Treats the water where it enters the building.
    POU=Point of Use. 99% of the RODI units used in this hobby are POU devices - they treat the water where it is going to be used - usually with just one, or a few outlets for the treated water. Typically designed to treat slower flows.

    Russ
    Last edited by Buckeye Hydro; 1 Week Ago at 11:42 AM.
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  7. #16
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    Ahh. thanks for clearing up the nerd-water speak. lol. jk.

    That's good advice on the chlorine and chloramines . I went with the sediment prefilter with expectations of prolonging the resin in the softener recognizing that some of it would get flushed out with the refresh cycle. One of those why-not things.

    I did just add a giant inline-filter before the refrigerator line since I was in a water quality tweaking mode. I guess this is what is known as POU. =) It's great! I notice it in the clearness of melted ice and I don't need to change the frig filter as often. Never had RODI issues beforehand even with a simple RODI buddy, but again ...why-not. Thanks for the advice on the carbon block - will pass.

  8. #17
    MARSH Sponsor Buckeye Hydro's Avatar
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    In my house I fed the refrigerator with dechlorinated, full line pressure water. I tapped into my RODI system with a tee right after the prefilters.

    PREFILTER=any filter that touches the water prior to the RO membrane.

    Russ
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  10. #18
    MARSH Sponsor FarmerTy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buckeye Hydro View Post
    In my house I fed the refrigerator with dechlorinated, full line pressure water. I tapped into my RODI system with a tee right after the prefilters.

    PREFILTER=any filter that touches the water prior to the RO membrane.

    Russ
    Russ, curious why you would do it after prefilters instead of after the RO membrane. Not questioning... Just curious what you know that I don't know. Lol

  11. #19
    MARSH Sponsor Buckeye Hydro's Avatar
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    Wanted the water at the refig to have improved taste relative to tap water, so at a minimum needed to get the chlorine out.

    But also wanted full line pressure (at my house, that's 65 psi) to the refig. A full pressure tank would deliver at most 2/3rds of that, unless I went with a permeate pump and high pressure ASOV.

    But you know the old story about the potter's kids not having any shoes...
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  13. #20
    MARSH Sponsor FarmerTy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buckeye Hydro View Post
    Wanted the water at the refig to have improved taste relative to tap water, so at a minimum needed to get the chlorine out.

    But also wanted full line pressure (at my house, that's 65 psi) to the refig. A full pressure tank would deliver at most 2/3rds of that, unless I went with a permeate pump and high pressure ASOV.

    But you know the old story about the potter's kids not having any shoes...
    Ah, makes sense. I wasn't really happy with my pressure tank setup since the water came out too slow. Is it that more advantageous to run it through the membrane? Or me doing that same as you just as good? I mean, prefilters will kick the pants off the cheap fridge filters any day I assume.


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