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  1. #1
    Supporting Member RR-MAN's Avatar
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    Reduce Fish Disease and Parasites - Safety Stop

    I was watching the below video by Mark. Seems like a good hassel free fish treatment. I will order a few packs from his web-site - only $5 bucks per pack.

    At the moment I treat only with copper for two weeks in the qt tank- no casulties so far.


    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A3kb5YpvKrk

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    Fish:
    White Tale Bristletooth Tang, Emperor Angel, Captive Bred Annularis (Blue Ring) Angel, Orange Shoulder Tang, Clown Tang, Sohal Tang, Naso Tang, lime/six line wrasse, chevron tang, pair of masked Japanese swallowtail angels, Lamarck Angel, Regal Angel, Majestic Angel, Achilles Tang, Queen Angel

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  3. #2
    BOD MEMBER sneezebeetle's Avatar
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    Interesting

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  5. #3
    BOD MEMBER steveb's Avatar
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    I just lost a lineatus in QT with copper when I went from 1.5ppm to 1.75ppm

    But not to get off topic, I have seen the video and blue zoo aquatics actually ships a small pack with fish orders or maybe I payed for it.. I don't remember.. I'm getting old and forgetful..

    I have never tried it.. I guess next time I will as a bath before qoing into qt tank.
    Last edited by steveb; 10-05-2018 at 11:33 AM. Reason: grammer
    Steve
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  7. #4
    Supporting Member RR-MAN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by steveb View Post
    I just lost a lineatus in QT with copper when I went from 1.5ppm to 1.75ppm

    But not to get off topic, I have seen the video and blue zoo aquatics actually ships a small pack with fish orders or maybe I payed for it.. I don't remember.. I'm getting old and forgetful..

    I have never tried it.. I guess next time I will as a bath before qoing into qt tank.
    Oh man sorry to hear that...
    Yes I have a copper test kit for the qt tank. You don't want to over-dose especially with wrasses.

    Bath>Qt is a great idea.

    __________________________________________________ _______________
    500/g Reef, 8ft by 4 ft * Trigger Custom Sump, 5ft by 3ft * Cone Reef Octopus Skimmer * 3-250MH/T5HO - LED Supplementation
    Maxspect Gyre XF280, 2XMP60s * 2XMP40s * 4 EcoTech Battery Backup


    Fish:
    White Tale Bristletooth Tang, Emperor Angel, Captive Bred Annularis (Blue Ring) Angel, Orange Shoulder Tang, Clown Tang, Sohal Tang, Naso Tang, lime/six line wrasse, chevron tang, pair of masked Japanese swallowtail angels, Lamarck Angel, Regal Angel, Majestic Angel, Achilles Tang, Queen Angel

    Automation:
    APEX 2016, WXM module, DOS, SV1-Solenoid Valve, APEX Fish Feeder, Breakout box with float for skimmer cup - Vertex Puratek RO/DI Unit

  8. #5
    BOD MEMBER PorpoiseHork's Avatar
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    Interesting option, however this would really only be effective if the fish is showing signs of infection. If the fish has ICK or Velvet and the parasite is currently in the no visible sign stage, then this is useless. Granted it would remove flukes and other external parasites, but a FW dip will do that as well. Even with that done, I would still put a new fish in either a non-medicated or medicated QT tank for at least 10 days to ensure there were no internal parasites or other issues.

    I keep a 10g QT tank running at all times and maintain a .25-.5 level with Cupramine. I have a 6 line and canary in there right now actually. All new fish are left in here for a minimum of 10 days observation. If I do not see any signs of ICK or other parasite by the 7th day they are then acclimated after 10. If they show signs of parasites I restart to day one and up the copper to .5-.75 for an additional 14 days minimum before I consider moving them to the main tank.
    Bret
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  10. #6
    Supporting Member Reefahholic's Avatar
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    Let’s just keep in mind that Wrasse’s, Anthias’s, and Blue Hippo tangs Don’t Tolerate CP (Chloroquine Phosphate). Others don’t do well with Copper. When I say don’t tolerate or do well...I’m talking about- kill them.

    TTM...is about the best place to start. Very safe for most fish.

    Not sure what’s in that medication, but be sure to do your homework. Over the years there’s been a lot of companies advertise a “miracle potion” that kills or fixes everything. I’d fact check exactly what their using in that product. If they don’t list it, don’t use it.

    There’s only a few proven methods and medications out there. Be slow to jump on anything else.

  11. #7
    BOD MEMBER PorpoiseHork's Avatar
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    I have treated multiple wrasses with Cupramine and never had an issue with it. But then I do like to keep the levels a little on the lower side just in case a fish has a particular sensitivity to it. The only fish I have lost in QT was a Tomini tang that had ICK show after 4 days into QT. It died after 24 hours of showing ICK. The other two in QT were just fine and I left them in there for a full two weeks after that just to be sure.
    Bret
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  12. #8
    Supporting Member Reefahholic's Avatar
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    FWI- 0.75 isn’t on the low side. :-)

    Things to keep in mind. A FW dip will most likely not remove everything. It’s very effective at removing flukes and knocking down numbers.

    A 10 day observation period is not long enough to be sure that fish are clean.

    Cupramine Copper has a theraputic level of 0.4-0.5 ppm. Running up to 0.75 is dangerous and isn’t needed. Copper is obviously a poison. This is why a lot of fish don’t tolerate it well. Always try to stay in the therapeutic range, but never go too far outside of the high end of that range.

  13. #9
    BOD MEMBER steveb's Avatar
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    I use chelated copper (copper safe) for mine.

    I used to use API copper test kit but recently started using the Hana high range copper test kit.


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    Steve
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  14. #10
    Supporting Member Reefahholic's Avatar
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    I hear a lot of people like the Hanna Copper Checkers. Can’t beat that digital read out.


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