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Thread: quarantine temp

  1. #11
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    I see reasoning in both points made here.
    David
    M.A.R.S.H. - Vice President
    Marine Aquarium and Reef Society of Houston

  2. #12
    MARSH Sponsor FarmerTy's Avatar
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    Just to expand on some items mentioned in here, average daily temperature swings on natural reefs can be 2-5 degrees daily... Its not as static as what most would think so your swings Dave are actually more natural than what most reefers mimic.

    Freshwater ich was shown to have quicker metabolic and reproductive rates but sal****************er ich, which are not related at all to freshwater ich have not shown the same increased life cycle with higher temperatures. They can be killed off though with higher temperatures of which the actual temp escapes me right now.

    I would lean to run the temp lower Dave personally as bacteria flourish in warmer water and a bacterial infection will kill faster than ich any day. Marine velvet does give bacterial infections some competition but still not as fast as bacterial IME. Also, the fish metabolism will slow down so they won't require as much food during QT which is great if they aren't eating right away as well.

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  4. #13
    Supporting Member RR-MAN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by reeftopia View Post
    I see reasoning in both points made here.
    For sure just like everything else in the hobby.

    I don't go with what's on the www but personal experience and the experience of a couple of LFS owners who's been in the hobby for more than 2 decades.

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  5. #14
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    I have not used a heater or chiller on salt. The most important thing is consistency. I have had systems that kept a pretty solid temp. When I had halides they would go from 77-84 degrees every day of the summer. My coral flourished that way. As long as your tank does it day in and day out, you will be fine. I would not take a fish from an 84 degree tank and temp acclimate for 30 min to 72 degrees. That switch might take longer.

    Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk
    Corey Ingram

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    Supporting Member Reefahholic's Avatar
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    For me the temp doesn’t matter. The Trophonts (ICH) only stay on the fish for about 3-7 days. Average is about 3 days. The life cycle of Velvet is usually completed in about 4 days (average). The Dinospores can infect for about 6 days and actually go as long as 15 days, but this would be in “non-medicated” water. In a medicated tank with the proper dose of CP- the fish can be clean in about 10 days. Clean meaning free from Velvet. That includes ICH too.

    For this reason I only do 2 transfers now and keep therapeutic levels for at least 10+ days. In theory...that will handle both ICH and Velvet.

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