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  1. #1
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    Help with Fallow DT during ich

    Hello, Recently found this awesome club and this will be my first post. I am looking for a little help.
    A Little Background: We had a 20 gallon tank for approximately 4 years and had decent success. We bought a used 90 gallon and it was set up about 4-5 weeks ago.
    It has a 36" Tigger sump, Octopus 150 classic skimmer, and Kessil Tuna H80 grow light. The main tank has two AI hydra 26 HD's. I moved all live rock, sand, filters,
    bio media, etc. into the new tank.. Also added several large pieces of live rock from LFS and it was running great. We have several small frags in the tank including
    zoas, small toadstool, hammer, torch acans, brain. About two weeks ago we noticed fish getting ich. We ended up having to pull all the rock to catch all the fish and
    place them into the 20 gallon for copper treatment. We ended up loosing two fish but everyone else is doing great. It's been a week and two days and from what I understand
    I need to keep them in the copper tank for approximately 7 weeks? I have been feeding the display tank with frozen, and some pellets to keep up the biological filter.
    About a week ago we started getting brown hair algae on the sand bed that is about 1" to 1-1/2" long. I figured it was high nitrates or phosphates but they all checked
    out very low. The coral was still looking good and opening up. All my testing parameters are showing great...maybe too great. Yesterday my polyps didn't seems to open
    up and everything just didn't look as lively. I checked everything and are as follows. P.H.-8.2, Ammonia-0, Nitrites-0, Nitrates-0, Phosphates-0, KH-161, cal-380, salinity-1.026.
    I waited till the lights started to dim, turned off main pump and fed reef chili. My question is some things I am being told is to don't feed the display tank while fish are
    out, feed display tank... Not sure what to do to keep coral healthy.
    I also need to find someone that knows what they are doing to help me check out my tank for flow, setting up lighting schedule and find out PAR to make sure its
    where it needs to be. I was going to have a LFS come do a maintenance because they set they could do all that then. (didn't say PAR check) but put it off until this
    ich thing passes.
    Anyone know who to use? Any Suggestions? I live in West Houston near Katy. Barker Cypress and Clay Rd area.
    I know this is a long post but trying to get this all done right for the best success.
    Thank You, Ronnie & Gina

  2. #2
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  3. #3
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  4. #4
    BOD MEMBER steveb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ronnie-B View Post
    Hello, Recently found this awesome club and this will be my first post. I am looking for a little help.
    A Little Background: We had a 20 gallon tank for approximately 4 years and had decent success. We bought a used 90 gallon and it was set up about 4-5 weeks ago.
    It has a 36" Tigger sump, Octopus 150 classic skimmer, and Kessil Tuna H80 grow light. The main tank has two AI hydra 26 HD's. I moved all live rock, sand, filters,
    bio media, etc. into the new tank.. Also added several large pieces of live rock from LFS and it was running great. We have several small frags in the tank including
    zoas, small toadstool, hammer, torch acans, brain. About two weeks ago we noticed fish getting ich. We ended up having to pull all the rock to catch all the fish and
    place them into the 20 gallon for copper treatment. We ended up loosing two fish but everyone else is doing great. It's been a week and two days and from what I understand
    I need to keep them in the copper tank for approximately 7 weeks? I have been feeding the display tank with frozen, and some pellets to keep up the biological filter.
    About a week ago we started getting brown hair algae on the sand bed that is about 1" to 1-1/2" long. I figured it was high nitrates or phosphates but they all checked
    out very low. The coral was still looking good and opening up. All my testing parameters are showing great...maybe too great. Yesterday my polyps didn't seems to open
    up and everything just didn't look as lively. I checked everything and are as follows. P.H.-8.2, Ammonia-0, Nitrites-0, Nitrates-0, Phosphates-0, KH-161, cal-380, salinity-1.026.
    I waited till the lights started to dim, turned off main pump and fed reef chili. My question is some things I am being told is to don't feed the display tank while fish are
    out, feed display tank... Not sure what to do to keep coral healthy.
    I also need to find someone that knows what they are doing to help me check out my tank for flow, setting up lighting schedule and find out PAR to make sure its
    where it needs to be. I was going to have a LFS come do a maintenance because they set they could do all that then. (didn't say PAR check) but put it off until this
    ich thing passes.
    Anyone know who to use? Any Suggestions? I live in West Houston near Katy. Barker Cypress and Clay Rd area.
    I know this is a long post but trying to get this all done right for the best success.
    Thank You, Ronnie & Gina

    Your fish need to remain in copper at therapeutic level for 30 days, your display tank needs to remain fallow for 76 days. -- no copper in display tank -- I don't think you are doing that but just in case.
    You can also TTM (tank transfer method) to manage and free your fish of ick.

    It appears you are using API test kits. I am not sure about the sensitivity on those but I would assume that they are not able to detect low levels of nitrate/phosphate. I keep my tanks in the 5-10 ppm range for nitrate and .01 - .04 range for phosphate.

    MARSH has a par meter that you can use. Contact OceansX via PM so that he can add your name to the wait list.

    For tank maintenance on the Westside of Houston check with David@Urban Aquatics, message him on facebook that is probably fastest. I believe he does maintenance. Hopefully a member on the west side will chime in and offer some hands on help.
    Last edited by steveb; 06-11-2018 at 08:44 AM.
    Steve
    M.A.R.S.H. - Board Member / Site Admin
    Marine Aquarium and Reef Society of Houston

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  6. #5
    Supporting Member
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    Thanks for your response. I have been hearing not the best things about the API test kits. I had planed on upgrading to better test kits as I use the API. My Magnesium kit is red sea.. Will definitely contact OceanX and use the PAR meter. We don't mid doing the maintenance on the tank we were only having maintenance done so that someone would come give advice as to lighting intensity, schedule, and water flow. Ronnie & Gina


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