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  1. #21
    Supporting Member frankc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ATXacrofarmer View Post
    I'm curious about your Triton test when you get it in. I run one annually to monitor trends and always like to see other's results as well. Keep us posted!
    I got the Triton results today. For the most part it looks pretty decent, except the lithium is off the charts too high. I don't know how harmful that is, or where it comes from. I have dosed Kent Tech M, which apparently has it, but I have not had to use very much of it.

    https://www.triton-lab.de/en/showroo...icp-oes/47061/

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by frankc View Post
    I got the Triton results today. For the most part it looks pretty decent, except the lithium is off the charts too high. I don't know how harmful that is, or where it comes from. I have dosed Kent Tech M, which apparently has it, but I have not had to use very much of it.

    https://www.triton-lab.de/en/showroo...icp-oes/47061/
    Yep, looks boring, which is good. Don't worry about lithium... Supposedly in our salt mixes too. Mine ran super high too as well as a ton of other reefers.

  3. #23
    Supporting Member frankc's Avatar
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    Thanks. So, I guess we're back to the "weird reefer" theory.

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  5. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by frankc View Post
    Thanks. So, I guess we're back to the "weird reefer" theory.
    100%. So give us some insight, why are you so weird? Tank New Year Resolutions

    Maybe in your build thread, mention which acros you've tried. What you did when you received them(acclimate, dip, etc)? Where did you place them? Give system details, what media used, what reactors, etc. I'm sure we can get to the bottom of it.

  6. #25
    Supporting Member frankc's Avatar
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    I don't have a build thread. I bought the system second hand, so it would be more of a tear down/temporarily house/set back up thread, which probably wouldn't have been that interesting.

    The list of Acros I've tried includes ORA Plum Crazy, rainbow milli, red dragon, granulosa, and a couple others I'm not sure what they were. I'm pretty careful about acclimation, and I start them on the sand bed for a week or two then move them up to brighter light. The milli I kept on a low rock since they seem to like lower light. The Plum Crazy and granulosa lived for several months, the others' lives could be measured in weeks.

    The system is pretty simple: ATO, manual 2-part dosing, no reactors or media, just a skimmer and filter socks. Lighting is Reefbreeders Photons.

    The previous reef tank which did have some thriving Acros was pretty similar, except with Maxspect Razor in place of the Reefbreeders, a glass top instead of clear screen, and being a smaller, square tank, it had higher flow.

  7. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by frankc View Post
    I don't have a build thread. I bought the system second hand, so it would be more of a tear down/temporarily house/set back up thread, which probably wouldn't have been that interesting.

    The list of Acros I've tried includes ORA Plum Crazy, rainbow milli, red dragon, granulosa, and a couple others I'm not sure what they were. I'm pretty careful about acclimation, and I start them on the sand bed for a week or two then move them up to brighter light. The milli I kept on a low rock since they seem to like lower light. The Plum Crazy and granulosa lived for several months, the others' lives could be measured in weeks.

    The system is pretty simple: ATO, manual 2-part dosing, no reactors or media, just a skimmer and filter socks. Lighting is Reefbreeders Photons.

    The previous reef tank which did have some thriving Acros was pretty similar, except with Maxspect Razor in place of the Reefbreeders, a glass top instead of clear screen, and being a smaller, square tank, it had higher flow.
    What are your parameters on the current tank?

  8. #27
    Supporting Member Cody's Avatar
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    I bet it's a nutrient problem. While running an sps 40 breeder, 90% of the time when things went wrong, nutrients were off, or at least that was my problem when the regular parameters were in check and stable.

    Also, Frank, I have a theory about lights and nutrients. Not tested, but I will start working on it over the next year. I think PAR/PUR and nutrients have a direct relationship. The reason I mentioned nutrients is because you have a milli that does better under lower light, and I've had a few different millis that can take a massive amount of light, so long as they have an adequate amount of nutrients. The theory is based off of chlorophyll and what it needs to opporate. If you run an engine hard, then it will go through fuel very quickly. If you run an engine softly and slowly, then it doesn't need as much fuel. I also found it interesting that Jason Fox more or less mentioned something about lighting and this relationship during his speech at Reef Currents.
    Last edited by Cody; 1 Week Ago at 12:56 AM.

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  10. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cody View Post
    I bet it's a nutrient problem. While running an sps 40 breeder, 90% of the time when things went wrong, nutrients were off, or at least that was my problem when the regular parameters were in check and stable.

    Also, Frank, I have a theory about lights and nutrients. Not tested, but I will start working on it over the next year. I think PAR/PUR and nutrients have a direct relationship. The reason I mentioned nutrients is because you have a milli that does better under lower light, and I've had a few different millis that can take a massive amount of light, so long as they have an adequate amount of nutrients. The theory is based off of chlorophyll and what it needs to opporate. If you run an engine hard, then it will go through fuel very quickly. If you run an engine softly and slowly, then it doesn't need as much fuel. I also found it interesting that Jason Fox more or less mentioned something about lighting and this relationship during his speech at Reef Currents.
    Nutrients were my developing theory as well... That or alk stability. There's a lot of anecdotal evidence that supports your theory Cody. Higher lights means give them higher nutrients. If you run a lot, you need to eat more. Makes sense to me.

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  12. #29
    Supporting Member frankc's Avatar
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    I am trying to keep alk at around 8.5, although I just checked and it's 8.1 now. I have little doubt that getting this on an auto doser would help.

    When I had Acros, the phosphate was running around .03-.05 and nitrate around 5-10. I just now checked and nitrate was down to .2. I don't know why that dropped so much. My 6.25'' foxface died a couple months ago, but I wouldn't think one fish would make that much difference in 300 gallons, and I have added a few smaller fish that would partially make up the bioload difference.

    Your idea makes a lot of sense, Cody. The previous tank always read 0 for phosphate and nitrate, so that could explain why the milli I had in it liked low light. The light in the current tank is not particularly bright - around 150-250 at most, the old tank was slightly higher as I recall but pretty similar.

  13. #30
    Supporting Member jqsquared's Avatar
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    For me completely rebooting my tank. Suffered catastrophic failure of my UV sterilizer which soaked a powerstrip causing my breaker to flip while i was out of town for xmas. Got the apex disconnect, by the time I got ahold of my neighbor to come over and check it was too late. Pretty devastated.


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